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Old 09-07-2008, 07:32 PM   #32
jwm
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Boston, MA
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Thanks for the guide, CirrusSR22, it's nice to have information from someone who's done it before.

When I did this job on my 318ti, I tried to avoid removing the cowl ductwork behind the wiring channel at first, but access to a couple of the fasteners at the rear of the valve cover was tough, so I wound up removing it. Having the battery tray out helped a *lot* with access to the ductwork fasteners; wish I'd stopped and considered that when I replaced my microfilters, since it's trivial to access the fasteners on that side of the ductwork with a deep 7mm socket once the battery's out of the way.

The inside of the cover was fairly coked up, but I was a little leery of using harsher solvents like carb or brake cleaner since the oiler bar is attached to plastic. In the end, it didn't clean up as well as I would have liked, but I'm probably being too picky.

I'm with you on cutting the old rubber isolators off; makes short work of it. I used a couple large sockets to press the new ones on; put a washer and isolator on the fastener, drop it into a large enough socket, and press down on the head with another socket and they pop right on:





When I was done, I wanted to make sure I hadn't accidentally knocked off the oiler bar supply seal. You can see it easily through the oil fill hole if you use a strong light.

Took it easy doing it and was done in a bit under four hours, including carting tools out to the garage, two trips to the parts store for solvent (the second one because I forgot my wallet the first time, heh), and cleanup.

Last edited by 1996 328ti; 10-12-2013 at 09:09 PM. Reason: fixed image links
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