Starter clicks, but wont turn over
 

Hey guys,

I have a 1998 automatic. I just replaced the cylinder head and installed a brand new battery. When I turn the key, it clicks as if the solenoid has voltage, but it wont turn over at all. I am confident that I put the wires back on properly as they only fit one way, but I could certainly be wrong. I tried cycling the key about 50 times to see if it would fre it somehow, but no luck.

The car sat for about two years. I am trying to get it going so my son (who just got his license) can drive it now. Could the problem be the starter is seized? Or do I need to put the car back on the ground and try to engage the motor by pushing it back and forth?

I tried doing a search and only got a few bits of info, but it seems everyone else having starter issues isnt getting a click (which seems like a different problem). Any help is greatly appreciated.

Battery is good? New or older? Have you tried to turn the engine over at the crank? And I would check the passenger side ground wire, check to see if it is excessively corroded. That might be the issue.

Mine was a about two months ago.

Yea as I said battery brand new, I had to turn the motor several times while ensuring the timing marks were right. So I know the pistons are not stuck. The ground has a 1/0 gauge wire and huge connector with bare contact. I tested the battery with multi meter and it reads good. My battery charger says it's at 100% and voltage is 15v while charging. I have the charger on full blast while trying to crank, but just clicks...

The passenger ground? Is that hidden somewhere?

Passenger side by the motor mount I believe. :cool:

I am sorry I missed that...Frustrating with a no start condition I know...

At this point, I'd pull and bench test the starter. Someone could chime in if there is another on car test that could be done. :rolleyes:

My bad if my response sounded rude. Not my intent haha. Thanks for your help. I just buttoned everything up really meticulously and hate having to undo it.

I'm going to check a few things again, then pull apart if needed. Wish I could get at it with a hammer! A really big BFH. So frustrating.

I'd check the main ground (in the battery box) and the engine ground which is right below it outside the box. If there is anything keeping current through there I think that you will get this.

What are the dash lights doing?

Couldn't a person try to put power directly to the starter while it's in there?

The starter is under the intake mani. I turned the stereo on and it was bumpin, the dash lights are good. There are two wires I questioned that are by the battery. Maybe one of them was power? They both had eyelets on them so I grounded them. I will take a pic and show u guys when I get home tonight.

As Bradestar said. Just re-emphasizing with some real world experience...
Sounds like the starter isn't properly grounded. The starter gets it's ground from the engine. Starter case to engine block to ground.
As a test, hook a jumper cable from the starter case (or nearby) to a body ground or right on the negative battery post. Then see if the starter works. That should eliminate a ungrounded/partially grounded engine as the problem.
Had this problem on an E31. After replacing with 3 starters and chasing our tails for a while. We finally found out that the engine grounding cable was corroded between the engine and cable terminal not providing a good enough ground to run the starter. Everything else was fine.
Good luck and let us know what your resolution was.
LouM...

Fantastic. I will give that a go first since it's the easiest. Just wondering how the hell it would click if there was no ground to complete the circuit?

In our case it was minimal bare metal to bare metal contact with all the corrosion between the engine block and ground cable. After we cleaned it up with sand paper and alcohol, the car started right up.

LouM...

Edit... The starter pulls a lot of current to turn the engine over. In order to do that it needs a thicker wires as well as good clean connections to ensure that it will function efficiently. This may not be your problem. But it will at least verify that it isn't if it still acts the same way.
It's like when you are trying to jump a car with a dead battery. Sometimes the jumper cables aren't making a good connection and the car won't start until you reset/wiggle the jumper cables.
L...