I have a 95 sport, and the driver-side window just came off track. Has anyone else expierenced this, if so, how much or how easy to fix....... Thanks |
I just had mine fixed. In fact I'm getting the passenger side fixed today. Get it fixed right the first time. It cost me around $300 to put in a new regulator. Those things pop off some times. Good luck! |
same thing just happened to me...gotta get it fixed next week. I'm just glad the window didn't break! ------------------ Dan B. '95 Club Sport |
Nice to see I'm not the only one. Mine jumped off last week and i haven't gotten it fixed yet. ------------------ Why look like all my friends at high school and drive a civic, when I can beat them in my TI? |
Check out http://www.understeer.com/window.shtml . [This message has been edited by Steven Schlossman (edited 01-31-2003).] |
If the window is not going up and down correctly, it's very likely that the regulator has warped or bent and will need to be replaced. It's most likely that the track guide has broken loose and will be lying on the bottom of the door. If this is the case, both will need to be replaced as well as the retainer clips and regulator rivets. The parts should be relatively inexpensive and the labor should take between 1 & 2hrs. You will need to have a riveting tool handy as well since the regulator is riveted into the door frame (as opposed to being secured by bolts). I ordered that parts and had my technician install everything. My total cost was a little under $250.00 with my BMW CCA discount on parts. Here are the part numbers: 51331977609 regulator 51321938884 retainer clip (you'll need 2) 51328146243 guide (if broken) 51321960413 guide felt (if broken) Unknown - Rivets (you'll need 4) |
This happened to BOTH my windows on the same day, sucks majorly I can't roll them down anymore as I can't afford $600 to fix the damned things. I called up some shop, Glass Plus or something, a few weeks ago to get them to come fix it, and they told me on the phone it would be $275, so I said okay. The guy comes, spends 60+ minutes "working" then comes back and says he doesn't have the parts to fix it so he simply propped the window up with a bored to keep it from falling down. Then the bastard charged $75 for the labor. |
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;} How handy are you? Mine went down this winter, with all the New England slat and crap on it, causing it to stick a bit when lowered. I pulled the door panel off to see what happened. The regulator was slightly bent, and the window track was a tad looser than I thought it should be. Every time the window went up then down, it popped out of the track in the front. To fix it, I simply bent the regualtor a bit, back to it's original shape with my hands -- not perfect, but close -- and moved the rear track forward a bit by inserting a rubber plumbing washer as a spacer. Next, I cleaned the tracks as best I could with rag to make sure the window wouldn't grab as it had been. Works fine, now. Don't pay someone to do this until you have tried it. It's a pain, but it's FREE! Keep the side windows and the weather stripping clean! Dino |
You know, this is funny, you think this would be a factory recall or something considering it has happened to all of us. Funny thing is, this is my forth time fixing mine. Go figure. I did try to bend mine back in place, and that helped, but only for a short while. I have to just keep getting the new slide clips. I am thinking that BMW messed up when making the door regulators or something. We shouldn't have to replace this stuff every 3 months... It is driving me nuts... I heated my regulator arm with a torch, bent it with plyers and then put on the new slide piece. It was fine after I cleaned it all out and re-greased it, but like I said, 6 months later, here we go again... If anyone knows a sure fire way to fix this thing and keep it fixed, let me know. I have just left it broke for about 4 months now because I am just tired of taking the stupid door apart and wasting my money... :x |
This seems to happen to all cars, not just BMWs. I know our old Dodge van's window track would break every few years. It only cost about $35 dollars to get it replaced if you did it yourself. I don't understand why it would cost so much though, it is possible to get the parts and install them yourself to save some money? |
Well, I know for a fact, that it IS cheaper to fix it yourself then it is to take it in and get fixed. But, I will tell you why it is so expensive. Beings that I have fixed mine three times now. First thing is first, I am not putting down your van or anything, but yes, it is a Dodge Van. Now, these are BMW's. Not that that makes a world of a difference, but just for the simple fact that evidentally they must mix a little gold in with every part they put out or something...lol But anyways, the cheapest, absolute cheapest, that I have found window regulators is for $81. And then the slide runs ya like $3 to $5. Okay, then in order to get the rivet tool to do it right, you either have to buy one, or rent one. I rented mine all three times. There was $20 a pop. So, totally, it has cost me about $315. I am getting really sick and tired of it, but from what I have heard, with these cars, it is just something that we are all going to have to get used to. It is a factory defect, and there is nothing that BMW is going to do about it... Go figure... But, its worth it, I love this car too much to get rid of it because of a window.... :lol: |
I don't have a Dodge Van, that was an example from years ago. I work around cars, and I see a lot of vehicles that have broken windows like that. I don't think it is too BMW specific.. but mainly only in power windows. |
I have left and right window regulators that I removed from my 1999 ti race car. In perfect condition. $100.00 each with motors. |
It just happened to me this morning- which really sucks because tomarrow I have to drive 6 hours. Oh well.... |
it hasnt happend to me yet....but it had happened to the previous owner. luckily for me he fixed it already and i didnt have to do anything for it...ive had the car like 7 montsh and nothing has gone wrong yet |
i just posted about this on another thread concerning this issue. uhhhhh if you want to see what i wrote, look it up there. im a lazy turd. |
I have a different prob, My window went down will bounce out of the front track when I shut the door. up and down is fine until it bounces then it goes all to hell. After 4 different fixes on my own, I am finally going to the dealer mon to have them look at. THe Tech understood what I was talking about even though the SA didn't. |
*Sigh* I'm finally breaking down and going to a BMW service dealer to fix it. Attempted the self fix to the degree of success for about 2 weeks, then the damn thing popped out again. I theorize now that once the window falls off track and bends the regulator arm, even after you perform your "fix", when you slam the door too much, the regulator arm is still bent. The regulator arm is now pulling/pushing the bushing in the track off axis under tension, making it easy for it to pop back out. The chilton's guide I bought says that you can drill the rivet out, replace the regulator and bolt it in, using an M6x10 bolt, washer and matching nut. No reason why you can't take out the regulator, put it in a vice and straighten it properly, then bolt it back in! (?) After toying around with the door for two weekends straight, I'm ready to pay to have it become someone else's problem. (so I can go back to THEM if it goes wrong again). (and also quit embarrassing myself at the drive through.......) :rolleyes: P.S. The mechanic smell is White Lithium Grease. |
This is really becoming a very common problem. :( I have been lucky. I replaced the bushings last summer. The window arm does push out the inside panel a little. |
I replaced my bushing....2 days ago. about 10 times in the last 4 months on the same door.....it's a PITA. |
Aaaah. *sigh of relief*. Got the thing fixed. :evil_lau: Feels so good to hit the auto lower switch without crossing your fingers. (although I'm casting a weary eye at the passenger side window now. I'll let you know that I paid just over $250 total to get the window fixed. That was the best deal I could come up with here in expensive Silicon Valley. While I have no comment on Labor, don't let any repair shop charge you too much more than 90 bucks for the new regulator, since that's what it costs currently (shipped). I was quoted in upwards of $400 dollars twice by various shops in the area, ($200 dollar regulator in that!). So user beware! I didn't ask him his method, but I am curious as to whether or not he put a new rivet into the new regulator, or if he used a bolt on method.. Good luck all. you :censored: jinxes!!! |
ok so my driver side window has broken twice in the past, and happened again tonight! wtf??? it was a warm night, and it fell off track. i had just installed a new regulator, and slider pieces. this is so annoying.... |
I posted a very long message on this topic within the week at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmw318ti I'm a wordy MF so it ain't short but I'll try to drop it here and see if it fits. My findings are as a first-timer who thought the window system sucked. There are lots of FAQs and tips on this and other sites that helped me. These are my additions to those: First: When removing the door panel DON"T pry out the mirror switch with a screwdriver stuck between it and the door handle. Pull off the "joystick" button and pull from the slots inside the mirror switch housing without touching and damaging the fragile handle. Mine already had some damage so I was adamant there had to be a better way. This is only a problem on the ti with its unique gummi door handles. Second: You'll need four M6x10mm bolts, nuts, and wave washers to replace the rivets that hold the original regulator in place. Install the top bolt from inside the door-shell cavity (nut on the outside) as clearances are quite tight to the regulator arm at that position. I found drilling out the rivets a royal pain. I even dragged out my compressor and my Snap-On air drill. But every rivet started spinning before I could get either the center drilled out completely or the head drilled flat. I ended up using a chisel and hammer to remove what was left. (Thought about the die-grinder but didn't want to litter the door with even smaller metal shavings.) Third: There is supposed to be a fuzzy rubber window-channel liner at both the front and the back. Mine was missing the one at the rear. It's a $9 part that one dealer had in stock, which is always telling. BMW calls it a "window guide rail", p/n 51 32 1 960 413. Fourth: Check for damage to the window tracks inside the door and for easy movement of the plastic slides in the tracks mounted to the glass. Best I can tell from the condition of my door, the slides had let loose at the ball socket and the regulator bound-up under the slide track, compressing and distorting the aluminum track making movement of the plastic slides very tight. Apparently the window went off track and bent the rear guide rail mounted inside the door, too, compressing that channel and distorting it so badly the window could do nothing but bind coming down, popping the clips again. This can also happen if the window is installed and operated when not properly seated in the front track. So check carefully to be sure the window is properly seated in the guide tracks and inside the rubber linings. With the regulator disconnected the glass should slide easily and smoothly through the tracks. If that's not the case, check the rear track for damage. Mine had apparently been this way for some time as the glass had worn a groove in the steel track with the rubber weatherstripping missing in action. All I can figure is that someone was in the door replacing the clips and threw out the rear track liner after not being able to reinstall it into the distorted track. The inside of the door cavity was littered with "hair-clips" from the plastic slides. The rear track is removed with one bolt accessed through the round rubber plug behind the door panel and the track slips underneath the upper window channel at the top of the door. I simply removed mine and peened it back into shape. Others have seen the welds broken and just replaced the track. Either way, make sure the glass slides smoothly before reconnecting the regulator. I probably could have gotten away with straightening my bent regulator arm rather than replacing the regulator once I figured out what caused the problem in the first place, but at $70 and since I had already drilled-out the rivets by that time. . . . . Fifth: When snapping the ball connections of the regulator arms into the nylon slides, note that the rearward ball is longer than the front and will have more space between the slide and the arm even when installed properly. Conversely, the front ball is short and may look like it is all the way in the slide when compared to the rear one, but it is not. Use a large pliers to snap the front ball all the way into the slide and THEN insert the hair-clip keeper with a needle-nose plier. Many problems in these regulators seem to come from the front ball not being properly seated in the slide. Sixth: Before you put the door panel back together, check the operation of the regulator while you can see it....slowly and a little bit at a time. The first time you hit full-closed position the motor may automatically drop down an inch or two and initialize itself to work properly the very next time. Don't do as I did and spend an hour trying to diagnose and fix the horrible noise caused by sloppy tolerances in the regulator when first coming off the full-closed position! It is apparently normal and will be rendered inaudible once the door lining is reinstalled. Have faith, you didn't do anything wrong! I hope this helps. -Phil |
Excellent. Two Thumbs up. If anybody wants to create this into a FAQ, I have a couple of pictures that can go along with this write-up. PM me or Email me. Writeb |
it should be a FAQ |
I've uploaded a picture of the smashed window track from my car, in case anyone's interested. Go to my profile and into my album. It's the only pic there. -Phil |
If the slide clips are broken there is a good chance the arms are bent. If you straighten it back it will just bend again. Best to replace regulator and clips. The door panels are not real sturdy. The less you mess with them the better off you are. |
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I have both regulators and glass that i will be takeing out in the next week let me know if his are gone. thanks Jeff 803-917-7863 |
window rear sliding glide fix i had the welds break on both my rear window sliders, instead of waiting and buying a new one i drilled the welds out and rivited them back together. then take a thin strong object and flaten the rivits the best you can(were the window has to travel by). the window should pass over the rivits. |
window fixes Sounds like everyone has gone through the same trials and tribulation that I faced. After fixing and refixing my driver's window, I finally concluded as stated in an earlier thread that the front channel seems to be the primary culprit. It seems to me that the guide channel isn't engineered properly, so as the window is manuevered up and down, if there is any variance the window may pop out of that track which then causes the bend in the regulator arm closest to that front window track. I didn't go out and buy a new regulator (although I know that I should have). Instead, I was lucky enough that I bent the regulator arm back into place with a small screwdriver using the twist and bend method by inserting it into the nice hole in the regulator arm. I then simply torqued it manually as I positioned the clips into the right position. As stated in the other thread, you really have to make sure that before you do any of this that you've got that window positioned in all the channels properly and you have to watch it all the way through. If it's not perfect it will pop out again and if you just bought a new regulator, it'll be time to buy another or hope the bend/twist method will work. The other key is to squeeze your hands into the door and pop those clips into the track with a pair of pliers. If you try to do it by hand, they won't truly have a good connection and will slide right off after using the window for a while. Now I know the right way to do this is to buy a new regulator, but I'd heard that folks did this and the problem came right back so I thought I'd be patient and tackle it for an hour each weekend to see what the true problem was. Now I'm glad I didn't opt for a new regulator and have it done somewhere, because it's all about the correction/installation. You'll find that you have little room to work in, and that you have to keep everything coordinated as you do the fix. Even a skilled mechanic or body man may think it all in correctly, but may you end up with another bent regulator if anything isn't just right. This could be the window not being fully in the track, not having the "perfect" amount of lithium grease in the window track, clips not completely seated in the track, etc... Now as a precaution, I simply don't let my window go all the way down (I stop at about an inch above the rubber seals), because that tends to be where my window seems to slip out of the front guide. Maybe it's just mine, but I think the front guide should be longer instead of ending where it does. I think that's an engineering problem. On the plus side, I only spent $4 for the clips, and my window works. Good times. |
I've had the same problem with my 1st TI. And the glass actually broke when I was on the freeway. Good thing I bought this Maintenance Manual CD ROM from this guy off of Ebay, and that helped a lot. I took the panels off and learned that the White Plastic piece which is the roller for the Regulator broke off. So I went to the junk yard got me a new glass and regulator and proceeded with the repair. Took the panels off and installed the new components. There should be a bolt or a nut (cant exactly remember) that has torque stripe that you would use to set the alignment of the window. The manual would tell you this step by step. This is definitely an easy fix, specially if you have the original glass that came with the car. Paying $300 to get this fixed (and knowing that the same problem would occur again) is just not my style. If you guys are in or around the San Diego area I would be more than happy to help. Oh by the way, I'm new here.. nice meeting you people. |
What year of car does everyone have that has expierenced this? I have a 98 and haven't had a problem yet. I have the Air bags in the doors, so I wonder if that helps any. |
I think the general consensus is that the window is just too large for the mechanism. I hear more about the failure in the winter. |
Alright, its been months and my windows are still broken. Both of them. I've attempted to fix the drivers side but it ended up being a lot more trouble than I anticipated. I can't get the window out of the slide... and I don't know how. Can anyone help me with this? This little problem alone is keeping me from removing the window and giving me the room I need to correct the bent arms and install the new rollers. If I can't fix this easily, then I am going to give up, but at the same time I'm tired of never being able to roll down my windows. Does anyone know of any alternative besides spending $600? Perhaps installing racing plexiglass snap-on windows? Has anyone done this before? |
to remove the window, you have to also remove the weatherstripping at the base of the window to get clearance for the aluminum sliders at the bottom edge of the glass. where the door panel clips in to the top edge of the door there are 7 or so little metal clips that need to be bent to pull the rubber part out. i forget how to get the opposite (exterior) side out but it should be apparent when you get there. after these pieces are out, slide the glass out of the tracks (or just roll the window up and have it done for you) then rock the glass so the back edge lifts first. cotterpins and regulator arms should be detached. you want to bring it out pointy-side up. if you mask a bit of newspaper over the aluminum bits you can worry less about scratching the paint on the way out, as well as spreading around grease. do you have a haynes/bentley manual? |
No I don't, but I should probably get one. My problem isn't getting the glass out of the door as much as it is getting the glass out of the sliders, which would then allow me to pull the glass out of the door. It simply will not budge. I've tried as much as hammering on the slider to knock it off, but I'm afraid if I try any harder it will just break the glass. |
okay, i'm a little confused here. the arms are attached to the aluminum part of the window frame via little plastic clips. these clips have cotter pins to keep the nubbins on the arms in the clips. as long as these are out, you can pretty much yank them out. it does take quite a bit of pressure. you can lever something underneath the regulator arm to pop it out of the clip. if you're talking about removing the two aluminum pieces on the bottom of the window, i wouldn't reccomend it. afaik, they don't come off. |
on my car it broke off the rivtes that hold it in place so i drilled out all the rivets and installed socket head cap m screws and my window doesnt pop out any more at all it is really stiff now with the metric bolts with the rivets it flex's a whole lot............. now i just need to do the other side seems like it want to come off track but not yet....... ill do it before summer |
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