Homemade subframe bushing tool
 

Has anybody ever tried to make and use this tool?
Thanks to "Itsablurr" on Bimmerforums.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1278591

I'm a cheap bastard & this appeals to me.:biggrin:

It's from a Z3 specific thread on bimmerforums, but is there any reason it wouldn't work for the ti?

I made a similar installer,(2 pipe caps and some all thread) Works great. I installed OEM bushings. A propane torch makes removal a cinch. The bushings are rubber outside the metal outer sleeve, a little bit of heat and they slide right out.

If you are going aftermarket on the bushings, and install tool shouldn't be needed.

Great!
I'll try it this weekend, weather permitting.
I'll post my results as soon as I'm done.

I did that too. I splurged and found hardened all-thread with a fine pitch. That combined with P80 Rubber Emulsion make it simple. I highly recommend the P80 to anyone who works on cars a lot

Thanks!
I just went to the manufacturer's website & ordered a P80 sample.:biggrin:

I'm curious to see how long it takes to get here.

Thanks for the suggestion! I just did the same, requested like 5-6 of the different P80 types for temporary assembly (used the company name of Three One Eight Training Institute). :D

Cool! :biggrin:

P.S. - I called around on the 3" diameter pipe needed to make the tool. I was surprised at how expensive one small pipe cost, like $20 each.
When I started asking about the pipe & endcap, I think one guy thought I was making a bomb. :yikes: He hung up on me.

home depot has everything needed...

If you are using oem bushings, i think it is a 2.5" endcap and a 2" endcap that is needed. along with some allthread.

i used the info from here...
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1173094


No tools needed for the removal though....other than a torch.

Nice! I thought about doing that myself. I bought a 1 quart(?) bottle on eBay. You only need a very small amount of the P80, so those samples should last for a LONG time :). Most things like o-rings and hoses just need a few drops smeared on the rubber.

Thanks!:biggrin:
I have a Fastenal store down the road from me, I think I might upgrade the threaded rod to something made from hardened steel.
I'm a bit concerned about the strength of the imported rods at Home Depot.

You shouldn't need hardened steel. You are not trying to destroy the bushing, just push it back into place. The pipe is really just there to apply even distributed pressure and get the new bushing to go back in straight. As someone else mentioned, if you are going to aftermarket bushings, you can lube them and get them in by hand. I would torch or use a sawzall to remove the old ones.

Not a fun job to do at all, no matter how you do it.. You should do all of the trailing arm bushings as well if you are back there already.

Beautiful, this should come in handy when I get around to putting mine in next week. I'm going poly on the subframe, rtab and diff so hopefully the install will be a tad ez-er.

Just got my P80 samples today, coincidentally, my trailing arms also came off the car today...new bushings will go in tomorrow hopefully the P80 will make it easier. I only asked for 2 samples but they sent me 4, lol.

Same here.:biggrin:
I received 4 samples too.
Must be a standard sample pack.

The subframe bushings can be replaced without dropping the subframe. This doesn't help if you're also doing the RTABS. A two jaw puller is used along with a modified harbor freight ($10) tie rod puller. This method also does not work if you're going to replace the factory bushing with a two piece after market variant (you need access above and below).

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1389953