Air Pump Simulator DIY for $12.45 I have completed my final version of my air pump simulator and it passed the testing this morning with no error codes. All parts from Radio Shack and total cost $12.45. No more $150-$200 to buy these online. I will post the complete DIY this evening when I get home from work. Here's a picture of the unit: http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...PunpDIY010.jpg http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...PunpDIY006.jpg |
wait, what? why are you removing your secondary air pump? just curious... |
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The air pump only runs for 2-3 minutes during warm-up to help the cat reach operating temp sooner. That is it's only purpose and I bet it weights 10 pounds. |
are you sure Nick G cant incorporate the elimination of the SAP into his software, as he does with the DISA valve? also, how did you plug up the hole for the secondary shut off valve?? Quote:
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Dude, chill out on the solder. Haha, use some flux next time and practice makes perfect! |
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John S |
Air Pump Simulator DIY DIY Secondary Air Pump Simulator. Secondary Air Pump Parts Needed (All Purchased @ Radio Shack): 1 - Component PC board (#276-149 $1.99) 1 - Component Project Enclosure (#270-1802 $2.69) 1 - SPDT * PC relay miniature 12vdc 10V (#275-248 $4.69) 1 – 5V Voltage regulator (# 276-1770 $1.59) 1 - 100K – ohm Micro Potentiometer (#271-284 $1.49) Tools Needed: Soldering pen 7 watts or higher Solder Wire Digital volt meter Place relay, potentiometer and regulator on board as shown in picture. Solder all pins on back side of board. Go to wiring diagram and make connections. When finished test unit by hooking to 12 volts and set potentiometer with a screwdriver to 200mv from pin DME wire to ground. Potentiometer should be between 45,000 and 50,000 ohms if you want to ohm it out. Questions to jsmith50@tampabay.rr.com ***This is for off road use only*** ***I accept no responsibility for items burned out or damaged by mis-use of this devise. The DME & O2 are sensitive devises and can be destroyed by sending the wrong voltage to the units*** Top Of Board http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...TopofBoard.jpg Bottom of Board http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ackofboard.jpg Wiring http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...Spoon-Feed.jpg |
wtf i was trying to look for my SAP and i didnt find anything can someone tell me where is located (m44 engine) |
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well i guess i dont have one, weird |
4 Attachment(s) some pics :eek: |
I think the secondary air pump was added in 1997. Your being a 1996 doesn't have it. |
mine is 5/96 production date |
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okay thanks for the info |
I'm seriously thinking about doing this as the way Dawning Atlanta designed the relocation of the SAP it's a PITA... The alternative to the simulator is a small cone filter... Routing that 1" hose all the way up front looks a piss poor job... Give this will bypass the SAP, how would you bypass the solenoid controlling the vacuum line going the check valve? Would that need to be simulated as well or it's a non self diagnosed part? |
Ok. I've purchased all the parts at RadioShack for $13. Now I'm trying to determine where the DME and O2 sensor wires come from. The other 2 wires will probably be obvious. I think I'll return the black plastic box and find another way to secure/protect the board. the board doesn't fit in the box correctly. |
hope this help http://deluxenailnspa.com/s2000/IMG_0091.jpg http://deluxenailnspa.com/s2000/IMG_0092.jpg http://deluxenailnspa.com/s2000/IMG_0093.jpg http://deluxenailnspa.com/s2000/IMG_0094.jpg the board does need to be sand down a little bit in order to fit in the box yellow=ground green=positive red=dme blue=o2 |
is this right? 3 Attachment(s) xxxJohnBoyxxx can you check my work please, this is my first time making this secondary air pump simulator i want to make sure it is right before i go further. also the plug that i unplug from the bottom of the sap is the power and ground, but where do i connect the dme and o2 wires to? thank you. |
When you install the simulator, do you leave the pump installed? What is the reccomended places to tap in the wires? I know the + &- must go the the plug in the bottom of the old motor, but where will the othetr two (DME and O2) connect? Should I locate the wire and tap into it? |
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Everything looks good. I can't ensure the voltage regulator is in correct by the picture. Looks like you turned it upside-down and wired correctly. Move to test stage: 1. First test continuity (Meter set to ohms) between DME and O2 wire with no voltage to unit and you should have a dead short. You are ensuring DME and O2 are connected together in the relay when there is no power. If good move to step 2 2. Apply voltage to simulator and listen for relay to click on. With simlator on test voltage positive lead on DME wire and Negative on battery ground. You should see 200mv or .200 volts or close to that. If not adjust the pot resistor to get 200mv or .2 volts on your meter when the unit is active. When completed disconnect power and the unit is tested and calibrated....Ready for install. +/- connection: SAP positive to Simulator positive so it becomes active only when the SAP is called for by the DME. Negative to any good ground or SAP ground (Your choice ~ Ground is ground) O2/DME connection: We are only looking for one wire to connect to. The upstream O2 signal...On my car 1997 BMW 318is the O2 signal is grey then goes to the plug and changes to a yellow on the way to the DME. This signal wire is the one we want to tap. You can tap Grey on the O2 or Yellow after the sensor plug which is still the O2 signal wire on it's way to the DME. Cut the signal wire and wire simulator wires O2 to O2 sensor and DME to the wire leading to the DME. What we are doing here is only putting the simulator in line with that O2 signal wire to fool the DME when the SAP comes on. Therory ~ When the DME calls for "SAP On" then it expects to see a lean condition on the upstream O2 sensor. If it doesn't see the lean condition from the SAP forcing fresh air in the exhaust it throws a CEL code. This is the only check for the SAP SAP On ~ Simulator active. The simulator disconnects the O2 sensor from the DME and sends a false 200mv signal to the DME telling it the exhaust gas is very lean. The DME is "happy" since it expects this signal with the SAP on so no CEL or error codes. SAP Off ~ Simulator off. DME calls for "SAP Off". The simulator when in a off state: When in the off state the relay is used as a pass through for the O2 signal wire so the O2 is connected like the wire was never cut. Car runs like normal and full Lambda conrtrol is active and car runs normal like nothing was ever changed. |
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Questions on wiring not explained above or too confusing call me home: 727 321-0460 cell: 305 742-8559 Eastern Time Zone, Name is John |
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thanks. |
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Do you think this device would work on a 323 with a 6cylinder M52 OBDII engine? The six has two front O2 Sensors. |
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Where can I find the DIY for the dual bank version? I tried using Google, and the only one I have found is the one for the M44. Thanks |
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Edit ~ It's right here ~ http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24726 |
Thanks very much. I do appreciate your help. Doug |
my o2 sensor plug has a black wire, grey wire and two white wires, then at the plug they turn into the following: black goes to yellow grey goes to black white goes to green white goes to brown on a 1999 318TI i read the following on pelican article: Lastly, with a 4-wire oxygen sensor, the output signal works in a constant loop, essentially, the fuel injection computer sends a signal to the sensor, and the sensor then sends the signal back to the computer. This is achieved by having one wire carry the signal to the sensor, and then another wire carries the signal back to the fuel injection computer. You also have a wire carrying 12 volts to the heating element, and the last wire is the ground for the heating element. (pic o2_sensor_diagram_4 jpg) With a 4-wire sensor, you will need to measure the voltage fluctuations between the two signal wires. To do this, start the car and let it warm up. Next, disconnect the oxygen sensor and measure the voltage between the wires. Now take off the oil filler cap to simulate a rich running condition. Watch the voltage, if it begins to fluctuate rapidly, then the sensor is good and you’re done. If it stays the same, it’s probably fried. |
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If not how could the voltage fluctuate or be present at all if it is disconnected from the harness? Also running a O2 sensor in the exhaust stream without the heater wiries connected is a great way to burn it out real fast, just an FYI. After speaking with you on the phone I think you have a wire mis-labeled. O2 sensor wires to tap into O2 White = Heater White = Heater Grey = Signal Black = Ground After plug O2 wiring to DME cross-over wiring to tap into DME wiring: Black = Ground pin 46 DME Yellow = Signal pin 19 DME Brown = O2 Heater Ground pin 30 DME Green = Connects to all red/white wiring 12 volts in ignition on key position |
SAP Simulator So i installed my secondary air pump simulator in the car finally a few weeks back, i checked the simulator with multimeter for correct settings, wired it in correctly with help from johnboy here, i dont get any codes for o2 sensors and car runs great as usual, so i know its wired in properly, however i still get the check engine light on at right about 40 miles after scan and reset, whcih is how many miles have to be driven for the SAP system to be ready in the computer, in my 318ti. Its the only code in the ECU and i have reset it three times, same thing every time, at about 40 miles driven after scan code comes back, any ideas? |
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I know of at least 25 units with no issues. |
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once agian i want to say thanks to johnboy for helping me, i figured out it was the voltage regulator that was no good, i rebuilt the simulator and realized the old voltage regulator was not putting out the 5 volts as required. Will be deleteing SAP check engine light code again and will test drive and see what happens. |
UPDATE: well after remaking the simulator with a working 5 volt regulator, i realized that the simulator is still not turning on (it does turn on when connected directly to the battery instead of using the old SAP wires) (i installed a red led to be able to see too), so got out the multimeter again and went fishing, found that the original GROUND wire going to the SAP was not grounding the whole time! I moved it to another place and simulator is now functioning, well see how it goes after driving the car for a while. By the way, if I made the simulator again i would do the following in addition to installing a 12volt LED on the positive lead for SAP, i would also install a different color led on the 5 volt regulator to make sure its working and if possible another color led to show either that the simulator is feeding data to the ecu or that it is off, therefore sending data directly from o2 sensor to ecu. And better yet install all three leds inside the car next to the ASC-T switch, so i can see it inside, instead of having someone else look under the hood, or me getting out of the car to check. But now im just getting fancy! |
So I got all the parts for this mod (and extras because I suck at glueing stuff together) and my BMW buddy asked me if we could do it for his V8 as well. I know the v6 needs the dual bank version, would the v8 need 3 banks? Thanks in advance. Sorry I forgot to ask him what series this is for. |
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Do you have pictures to show how the wires are connected from the built simulator to the car DME and O2 unit? |
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