okay thanks for the info

I'm seriously thinking about doing this as the way Dawning Atlanta designed the relocation of the SAP it's a PITA... The alternative to the simulator is a small cone filter... Routing that 1" hose all the way up front looks a piss poor job...

Give this will bypass the SAP, how would you bypass the solenoid controlling the vacuum line going the check valve? Would that need to be simulated as well or it's a non self diagnosed part?

Ok. I've purchased all the parts at RadioShack for $13. Now I'm trying to determine where the DME and O2 sensor wires come from. The other 2 wires will probably be obvious. I think I'll return the black plastic box and find another way to secure/protect the board. the board doesn't fit in the box correctly.

hope this help
http://deluxenailnspa.com/s2000/IMG_0091.jpg
http://deluxenailnspa.com/s2000/IMG_0092.jpg
http://deluxenailnspa.com/s2000/IMG_0093.jpg
http://deluxenailnspa.com/s2000/IMG_0094.jpg

the board does need to be sand down a little bit in order to fit in the box

yellow=ground
green=positive
red=dme
blue=o2

is this right?
 

xxxJohnBoyxxx can you check my work please, this is my first time making this secondary air pump simulator i want to make sure it is right before i go further.

also the plug that i unplug from the bottom of the sap is the power and ground, but where do i connect the dme and o2 wires to?

thank you.

When you install the simulator, do you leave the pump installed? What is the reccomended places to tap in the wires? I know the + &- must go the the plug in the bottom of the old motor, but where will the othetr two (DME and O2) connect? Should I locate the wire and tap into it?

Everything looks good. I can't ensure the voltage regulator is in correct by the picture. Looks like you turned it upside-down and wired correctly.

Move to test stage:

1. First test continuity (Meter set to ohms) between DME and O2 wire with no voltage to unit and you should have a dead short. You are ensuring DME and O2 are connected together in the relay when there is no power. If good move to step 2

2. Apply voltage to simulator and listen for relay to click on. With simlator on test voltage positive lead on DME wire and Negative on battery ground. You should see 200mv or .200 volts or close to that. If not adjust the pot resistor to get 200mv or .2 volts on your meter when the unit is active. When completed disconnect power and the unit is tested and calibrated....Ready for install.


+/- connection: SAP positive to Simulator positive so it becomes active only when the SAP is called for by the DME. Negative to any good ground or SAP ground (Your choice ~ Ground is ground)

O2/DME connection: We are only looking for one wire to connect to. The upstream O2 signal...On my car 1997 BMW 318is the O2 signal is grey then goes to the plug and changes to a yellow on the way to the DME. This signal wire is the one we want to tap. You can tap Grey on the O2 or Yellow after the sensor plug which is still the O2 signal wire on it's way to the DME. Cut the signal wire and wire simulator wires O2 to O2 sensor and DME to the wire leading to the DME.

What we are doing here is only putting the simulator in line with that O2 signal wire to fool the DME when the SAP comes on.

Therory ~

When the DME calls for "SAP On" then it expects to see a lean condition on the upstream O2 sensor. If it doesn't see the lean condition from the SAP forcing fresh air in the exhaust it throws a CEL code. This is the only check for the SAP

SAP On ~ Simulator active. The simulator disconnects the O2 sensor from the DME and sends a false 200mv signal to the DME telling it the exhaust gas is very lean. The DME is "happy" since it expects this signal with the SAP on so no CEL or error codes.

SAP Off ~ Simulator off. DME calls for "SAP Off". The simulator when in a off state: When in the off state the relay is used as a pass through for the O2 signal wire so the O2 is connected like the wire was never cut. Car runs like normal and full Lambda conrtrol is active and car runs normal like nothing was ever changed.

Your choice on the SAP. I remove it for the extra space and weight removal. Wiring is in post above.

Questions on wiring not explained above or too confusing call me

home: 727 321-0460
cell: 305 742-8559

Eastern Time Zone, Name is John

if you could clear this up for me a little, i have two wires i need to connect on the simulator the DME wire and the O2 wire, the wires that i need to tap into are somewhere near the sap? where do i find these? you say one wire to connect to? i am not clear on this.

thanks.

Yes we cut one wire, the signal wire from the upstream O2 sensor. The cut wire has two ends now. The end leading to the O2 gets connected to the O2 from simulator. The other end that leads to the DME gets connected to the DME wire from the simulator. We are only patching the simulator into one wire of the O2 sensor (the signal wire). When the SIM is off it connects the cut wire so the O2 operates normally like the wire was never cut. When the SIM turns on it disconnects the O2 and sends a false signal (200mv) to the DME to fool it into thinking the SAP is working. Call me at home if not clear, it is so much easier to explain over the phone, I don't mind calls at all. Best John S

Do you think this device would work on a 323 with a 6cylinder M52 OBDII engine? The six has two front O2 Sensors.

Yes but you need to make the I-6 version (Dual Bank). I think there is a DIY on that too or at least I posted one with pictures...

Where can I find the DIY for the dual bank version? I tried using Google, and the only one I have found is the one for the M44. Thanks

I would just make 2 simulators: one per O2 sensor and call it a day. There's enough room on the board to make them fit them in a single box, already sharing ground and 12V inside the box. You'll end up with 6 wires instead of 4: 1 for ground, one for 12v, 2 for O2 (one per sensor) and 2 for DME (one per sensor)...

I have a DIY for this I'm sure because it was used in the I-4 to I-6 swap manual. It is on this board. If not I will email it too you. Ipcapitol is correct you just make two on one board, the only shared item is the regulator


Edit ~ It's right here ~ http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24726