Diff swap project Well, finally started my differential swap project. I'm using http://www.318ti.org/notebook/diff_c...ion/index.html as a reference. I will be installing a torsen diff from a 99 Z3 6 cylinder. http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8aab50d0.jpg Drove front on ramps plus added jacks. http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...psd8dcfb8a.jpg Tight spot with a 2 car garage. http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...ps630ee5bd.jpg I didn't even try taking these off with a breaker bar. Plus, the wheels were already off. I used a 30mm 12 point :eek: with an impact gun http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...psa3ab1d0b.jpg 30MM nut removed. I started removing the driver's side half shaft. I had to loosen the exhaust and allow it to hang in order to get good access. The E Torx bolts came out without any issues. On the pax side, I'm unable to get the half shaft off the hub. I've pounded the hell out of the half shaft but it will not budge. It currently sits hanging by some wire until I figure out how to remove that half shaft. If I can't remove it, I might just use the factory 318TI half shafts. http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...pse63c4509.jpg Stuck at this stage... |
I wish I could offer some advice. I have never done this on my car. I'll let someone with more knowledge on the subject lend a hand. Good luck with your project. Subscribed |
Do NOT use the factory 4cy half shafts. They are longer than what you need for the 6cy diff as it is a wider case. Just get a long pointed chisel and pound the $hit out of it. When you put then back in, throw a tiny bit of anti seize on yhe splines. When I had my Ti, I could do an axle swap in 10-15 min (I had to replace them a lot) and what ever you do, do NOT put advanced axles in. Ask me how I know. |
Hit the splines with a boatload of Kroil and let it sit for a day or so, then keep pounding away. Repeat as necessary. |
Don't have any Kroil so used PB Blaster. I'll let it soak til tomorrow. Wish me luck! |
Other recommendations would include: 1.) Giant brass drift + 6-8 lb. sledgehammer 2.) 3-jaw puller |
Zoner, Thanks! Rented a 3 jaw @ Advance and she is out. I do not understand why that half shaft was in so tight. Is it possible the S52 was just killing that half shaft (spirited launches!)? One thing for sure. It was not going to go out via the big F Hammer method. I even had a bit of a hard time with the 3 jaw. Thanks again! |
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I purchased an E30 set from BF.c, paid about $70 shipped. CV boots in good shape, no cracking/leaks, and all splines with zero distortions. |
Good plan ^ |
Taking my sweet @ss time with the diff swap. :biggrin: - Last time I posted, I did get the half shafts removed. Hub bearings seem good so I'm not going to replace them at this time. - Continuing with this project, which you will see shortly how it's turned out into another slippery slope event...:mad: Loosened top four diff bolts and left the fifth center bolt for last. I used a 6 point socket (can't remember size but I did have to use a cheater bar) Then I slowly lowered the diff using a floor jack. At first, it takes a bit of lowering, then a bit of moving aft (to clear the driveshaft bolts), then a bit lowering, etc... I can also see how essential alignment when it's time to raise the diff and reinstall. http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8e3b2334.jpg So while I'm down there inspecting the underside, I notice a reddish colored fluid splashed throughout the area, especially the forward half of the driveshaft; heat shields; and under the transmission. The engine area is completely dry so I figure it must be transmission fluid. I removed the exhaust, heat shields, and drive shaft. More fluid can be seen! It was actually pooling on one of the heat shields and from time to time would somehow get spilled and burned off near the cats. http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...ps32ad0be8.jpg I noticed my new (less than 2k miles tranny mounts are "melting", I assume by the constant exposure to transmission fluid broke down the rubber??? http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...psb619805c.jpg http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...psee20e9c7.jpg http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7d4e85af.jpg Continuing on, I start to remove the rear sub frame in order to replace the oem bushings with AKGs. As I lower the sub frame, looks like I'll be exceeding the stretch threshold on the parking brake lines and rear brake hard lines, so those have to come off. http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...psc7baff28.jpg http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...psbc31386f.jpg http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2c50846a.jpg Paused to update my things to buy while I'm in there: 1) Transmission mounts. Any recommendations? These oem rubber didn’t last 2K miles! 2) Shifter (current installed shifter is from an M3). The shifter's metal cylinder is coming loose from the inner rubber shifter. When you are inside the cabin and hold the shifter, it tends to have an unwanted rotating movement, as if you had a loose shifter ball. 3) Even though all the parts that connect to the transmission are new, I'm afraid all the rubber stuff has been damaged by the fluid exposure. So I will need to replace all that crap again, new bitch clip; "sponge" bushing goes inside rod joint; shifter arm bearing, etc... 4) What is causing the transmission leak? It all seems to originate around the shifter area. Any info would be really appreciated. I just hope I do not have to lower the transmission! |
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http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...t_Bushings.htm See figures 36, 37, 38, 39 I have done this on the bench and it isn't too bad. Best to pry out the old seal and install a new one. But many people just drive the new seal in atop the old one. |
I have the say the hardest project I've encountered in car ownership has been the rear subframe bushings. I assume not having the right bushing removal tool doesn't help. I used the 3" pipe method from a Z3 write up but it did not come out in one piece. Now I'm stuck with 1/2 bushings in the subframe and I do not own a torch. The only thing that came out were the guts :mad: http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...psc08fb25d.jpg |
Subframe bushings Going to jump in here, hopefully lend a hand. I've done subframe bushings on my e30 as well as my Ti. First get a torch. One of the small plumber torches you can pick up at your local hardware or depot/ lowe. Use it to heat the subframe bushing "collar" around the bushing. The key here is to not set the bushing on fire as some do but to get it hot enough to where the grease(?) between the collar and the bushing starts to bubble, almost looks like it is starting to boil. Focus on heating the collar really well. Support the end of the subframe and give the metal center of the bushing some love with a 5lb. hammer. If it doesn't start to move apply more heat. This method works without sending a toxic cloud of burning rubber into your lungs. As far as the bushing you've already cut the center from (your picture) apply heat, support the frame and use a drift and work the lip of the bushing, a little tougher but it will come apart. Heat and patience. Hope this helps. |
Non.... Thank you very much. Bought my first torch and went to town! Your method worked like a champ! Thanks again. Update: I reafirm my statement that this is the hardest project I've encountered. Finally got some time off to continue with it. - I bought some washers and modified them to shim the ABS sensors. - Installed AKG bushings in rear subframe. - Raised and installed rear subframe. - Reinstalled driveshaft. - Installed Diff. That one was peachy! Now I'm stuck at the half shafts :mad: I'm using E30 (with ABS) half shafts I'm using Z3 6 cylinder diff Seems like the E30 H/S are too short :confused: I've wailed on them to get them to slide into the hub. The diff end is matched up, but the hub end does not go all the way in. In other words, I can't see the threads on the H/S when its inside the hub, and therefore cant tighten the H/S. Hopefully the following photos help: http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5117aa6c.jpg Old Diff from 318ti http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...psd3ba4d01.jpg Old Diff guts. Non LSD, correct? http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...psef537a6b.jpg Left: Longer hex bolt from E30 Right: Shorter/thinner Torx bolt from 318TI http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5324873d.jpg Output flange from 318TI. Should this be swapped into the Z3 differential? Just pull out and insert into the Z3 diff? http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...ps45337a32.jpg Left: Longer H/S from 318TI Right: Shorter H/S from E30 http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/...psac7a82dc.jpg Photo of hub. Z3 H/S is in but the threads do not clear. |
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