Turbo TI Hey guys, I have gathered many goods to start a turbo build for my ti. Basically I am wanting to start simple with 8psi of boost. Then as I upgrade internals increase boost. I will be attempting to do the tuning myself, but so far I seem to be in a little over my head. John has helped my out a ton with giving great advise on any question I could conjure up. Any advise or questions let them shoot! Here's what I've got: *1996 318ti California edition with about 100k on the motor *.42a/r turbo * jdm intercooler and piping *EMusa wastegate *stainless 6cyl manifold I have cut and welded *misc. odds and ins |
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Nice start. Just keep moving along and you will be done in no time |
looks like u've got a good start, i like what ur doing with the header, keep the updates coming |
Right now I am working on getting oil to and from the turbo. I wanted to try to get all but the exhaust done today, but none of my local auto parts stores carry any m12X1.5 fittings for the feed line. I am planning on running a "T" from the oil sender so I can still run the censor. But what happens if I do not run the censor? idk? In a couple minutes I will be pulling the pan to mount my return. Hopefully I can compile some sort of temporary feed. Then I need to figure out which maps on Winols I need to adjust and how. |
nice start i wish i could start on mine too. that engine mount is gonna break sooner or later |
Hah thanks I plan to pull it off and weld some reinforcements onto it once everything is mocked up. |
k just trying to help u so u dont have any problems down the road |
Might anybody know how to remove the oil pan? I have removed the pan on my old engine some tome ago, I just remember removing the 16 or so 10mm bolts ant pulling it off. But today I cannot get it to budge. I have tapped in it with a mallot. any ideas? |
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That mount is the down force side on the engine so the bottom of it gets the most stress (where it's currently cut). It needs to be strong or it will break and your motor will drop on the cross member center frame and bust the oil pan or jack up all your exhaust manifold piping by bending it when it hits the frame. Also major drive-line issues will happen with the engine in the cock-eyed position. Just a warning and I'm sure your already all over this issue. Just want to be sure. Ok? Best, John S |
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I can give you a link for the fitting M12 fitting and a gauge for about $79 maybe more. You then "T" with a 1/8 NTP and put the sensor on center tee and run your turbo oil off the straight tee directly to the turbo. This oil is freshly filtered. You know the pressure to your turbo at all times since the gauge is hooked on the tee center and reporting to you. On the oil pan. Make sure you drill as far up on the pan as possible in the baffle area. You need to be high so when you screw in the return it is right below the motor block. If you don't do this you will need a oil scavenger pump running at all times to remove oil from the turbo unless your doing a top mount turbo. Just some thoughts while I drink. Dad's service tomorrow. Putting him to rest... |
going turbo sounds like fun......is this easier/cheaper than doing a motor swap? |
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