Re: M3 strut bearings- I see different part numbers listed for the 1995 M3 3.0L and the 1996-99 M3 3.2L. I have a 1995 ti M42- would either one still work and what is the difference?

Interesting... I know the LCAs and LCA bushings are different due to a geometry change in '96 but was not aware of the top bearing change...

The caster angle is the same, just achieved a different way on the bottom, so I don't know what the change could be.

If there is a big price difference, I'd go with the less expensive option. If the difference is small in price, I'd go with the newer design (96-up)

'96+ M strut mounts (E36 M3 and MZ3) will give ~2 deg of camber when you swap them from left to right. This is very well documented on bimmerforums, make sure when you install them that you have them on the correct sides if you want the extra camber.

Interesting bit of information!

This is an excellent list. Just what a new owner like myself needs. Thanks for all the great info.

I experienced improvement after I installed a front strut tower brace, then more improvement after I installed the x brace, then still more improvement after installing a rear strut tower brace. I installed the pieces in the above order. Front brace and x brace seemed to generated equal amounts of improvement. The rear brace, a little less. John

I am starting to be a believe of strut tower braces.

Reading the autocross forums, the E36 guys say that it takes their jack a few less pumps to get a tire off the ground with a front strut tower brace. I can only image the effect we would get when using a rear shock tower brace since we have an open hatch design.

Now, what are the cheapest most effect tower braces?
I know of the Sparco one for the front at $130. Are there any cheaper ones?
What is a cheap one for the back?

I paid $40 for a nice shiny used rear strut brace and $40 each for new ones, not so shiny on eBay for two ti's and a E36 sedan. Easy decision purchase as they help add rigidity. I'd like a Mason rear bar, but out of my current budget. :cool:

Cheapest is to make your own from a scrap of electrical conduit, like I did for my old e12. Just hammer the ends flat and drill to pick up the shock mount bolts. That straight steel tube is much stiffer than a curved aluminum bar.

I’m finally getting back to my Ti track/Lemons car build after having a child & building a home and have a few questions about my suspension plans. About 5 years ago I started buying front end parts for this car and want to make sure I’m getting everything to match up
correctly. I am setting up the front to be like an M3. My original plans are use E30 M3 aluminum lower control arms with offset lollipops but I’m not sure if my ‘96-99 E36 M3 knuckles will mess up the geometry?

Shopping around the other day I noticed a E46 lower control arms set up that is supposed to increase front end track & maybe shed some weight with aluminum control arms. Has anyone tried this out yet?

Easiest solution for an M3 front suspension is to install an M3 front suspension.

It all bolts in.

Aluminum LCAs are nice but wear out faster than their cast iron counterparts. If you have a good budget; plan for annual replacement.

You can increase wheelbase a bit by mixing the pre-96 offset bushings with the post-95 LCAs. You push the front wheels forward about 3/4 inch and obviously increase caster along with it.

Don’t forget the X-brace.

Looking for a way around the exorbitant prices of used Z3M LCAs.

I know its a bit off topic but I'm wondering if Z3M rear bearings and hub will mount into non M Ti rear lower control arms? I suspect not. To go way out on a limb can the spindle castings be bored out to hold those bearings??

Seems to me if either of those is possible you can then use the vented rotors without dropping the big money on LCAs.

Is the M outer CV joint splined shaft a larger diameter also?

It's just not worth it.

If you own a machine shop and place no value on your time, I guess it could work, since track width is the same, but the M Roadster/ M Coupe rear sub frame is stronger; the trailing arms are stronger; the half shafts are stronger; the diff is stronger; the brakes are bigger etc. Tone rings are different, so the spindle housing will end machining... Probably 20 other things, like using the MZ3 halfshafts.

Yeah, it's a grand, or two these days, but you get everything in one neat package.

I've looked at it a few times over the years and it's a false economy for sure to try and cut these corners.

I was fishing, for sure it would be alot of T/E. I did find someone who didn't strip the rear chassis yet to sell the bits separately but he wants $4250 for the whole assembly. He said $1000 per LCA alone. Someone else wanted $8k. He said $3-$4 for the LCAs alone.

Just curious, how much wider is the track width on the M rear chassis and where exactly is it, in the positioning of the LCA pivot mounts?

Anyone have more details on the differences in subframe widths or track width? How much wider or narrower is the track width on the M rear chassis vs the Non-M Z and where exactly is it. Is in the positioning of the LCA pivot mounts?