318ti.org forum - Bleeding Clutch Procedure

So I just did this procedure as I changed the fluid for the brakes and bled them. I went ahead and pumped the clutch bout 40 times before I went under. Then once under removed the slave and opened the valve then pushed in the rod closed the valve and let the rod return to its unpressed state. Brown gunk came out of the system at one point it got clogged and I had to stick a paper clip in the hole where the bleeder was to remove the obstruction and sure enough it worked. Then I just bled until I saw no bubbles and fresh fluid. Once I finished bleeding I lubed the end of the shaft with some grease and put it back in its spot making sure the shaft went in straight ahead in its position and tightened both nuts. I then went up and pumped the clutch, the first time the clutch pedal had little to no resistance so I kept pumping the clutch in a slow manner and felt it gaining resistance little by little until the gears would go in because at first they would not. Then once they went I turned on the car and went for a spin. First thing I noticed was that the clutch engagement was literally right about half an inch when depressing it. The weird part was that with the clutch fully depressed the first 30 percent of the travel while being pressed had little resistance but the more you pressed the more resistance gained. I noticed as I drove the gears would not go as smooth as before so I came back home and turned off the car and pumped the clutch just as I said earlier then the pedal gained complete resistance as before and the clutch engagement moved to about right before half way and I knew that it was done gears going in smoothly and clutch grip is nice and firm. Question did everyone else have to go through the same clutch pumping after bleeding the system to regain the pedal firmness?