M coupe/Z3 engine weights vs. M3 engine weight? I can vaguely remember a post here (maybe by J!m) explaining the different HP and weight varieties between the 3.0L Z engine, the 3.2 M Coupe/roadster engine and the M3 engine. Anyone know their stuff and want to impress us? :) Is the M coupe engine lighter as I remember? Why? I am musing lately about an engine swap and cannot recall someone swapping in a coupe engine. And then I wonder why seeing as how it is lighter (if I recall correctly). Here is a good rundown of HP per make of Z/M http://www.z3roadster.com/ |
The only deviation on engine weight is the Z3 2.8 motor, which had an aluminum block, whereas the other cars 2.8s were cast iron blocks. This meant the Z3 2.8 motor weighs about the same as the 1.9 motor, and therefore an excellent choice for a conversion in the ti. (some accessories will be needed form a standard 2.8 to make it all work in the ti, but basically it's cool). Steve has done this swap I believe... The M motors are all the same as far as weight goes (+- a couple pounds) as the M roadster (and I presume the M coupe`) use a different A/C compressor and mount casting then the standard M3 coupe` or M3 sedan. All these blocks are cast iron, like the normal 2.8. Battery location may have an impact on weight distribution in these cars, but strict engine weight is the same. |
Thanks- that's the info I was looking for. Unfortunately I was hoping it applied to the M series motors. Any info on the aluminum block 2.8 and durability/service issues? |
You know I just looked and the 2.8 puts out 193bhp- less than a DASC but I would imagine twice the price (maybe 1.5). IYO J!m what's the advantage of the 2.8? Further tunability? I saw a DASC ti dyno at 196hp last summer. Seems like if your gonna swap, swap big and do a 3.0 or 3.2. |
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One more thing, I think the weight difference between the M44 and the S52 can be made up with the use of a carbon fiber hood, and relocating the battery to the rear hatch as Ben Liaw did in his car at Rouge engineering. The Carbon fiber Hodd will save over 60lbs and the batter was around 50lbs. |
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I think the only reason I'd swap motors is if my M44 died/got damaged. But if I'm not mistaken the stock Mcoupe/Mroadster motor in it's later years put out 315hp. See link in first post. BTW I've also heard the BMW official hp ratings are conservative. |
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Attention crazy people... Lets see... The six offers many possibilities for further 'enhancement' down the road if desired. This is possibly an argument for a swap. (In the immortal words of Carroll Shelby: "There's no replacement for displacement") Honestly, if you guys get the chance to drive a 250 (honest) HP ti, you will (OK should) be quite happy with it. 300 HP (or more) is nice for bench racing and all, but you WILL NOT hold speeds over 100 MPH in this country for any length of time where that kind of HP is needed. It sucks, but it's the way it is here. I would have no trouble at all producing over 500 HP for a ti. Why wouldn't I you ask? Because there is simply NO BLOODY NEED for it. I could do a twin-turbo (variable vane Garret's, naturally) five litre V-12 and be someone's hero for a day. Big deal. (by the way, it fits just fine in a ti, and I'd be more than happy to charge to do this swap- save your pennies...) The six swap (for me) is plenty powerful, gets good gas mileage, is totally reliable (I would not want to be driving that sick-ass 5 liter for 12 hours straight, I can assure you of that), and comfortable. I can go out on a date on Saturday, and autocross on Sunday. I like this. If you want the most from your ti, don't touch the engine. Totally gut it instead. Throw out the interior, radio, speakers, dash etc. Loose the weight with the stock motor, and it will perform like a much more powerfull machine. Get the hp/weight ratio back in line. I like the comforts (except the radio, I deleted that- the 3.2 is MY music...) so it made sense to do the swap for me. If you are honest with yourself, and REALLY want the most from the car, you need to optomize the car, and this means sacrifice. This is exactly why 'all-season' tires suck. You simply cannot have one set-up that is right for all occasions. Bottom line: Think it over, and do the swap for yourself, not to try and impress others. You will be happier with the results (what ever you decide to do) if you do this. PS I was serious about that 5 liter job, if anyone has the bank for it. |
Occasionally I let the ti sit (vacation, sick, swap cars) and when i do drive it again I love it just the same totally stock. But one of these years I will take my yearly bonus and drop in a DASC. |
Granted I am a newbie to this forum, but after reading a lot of info- and talking to a few people ( I am lucky to have a kick a$$ shop right next door!)... I decided upon the alumnium block Z3 3L. It's not a NikaSil sleeved block (no need to worry about lubricants destroying it!) like the 2.8L, and it puts out 225hp! (Only 30+/-hp better than the 2.8...) So I figured if I ditched the stock manifolds with pre-cats built in, for the m3 headers I should be right in the neighborhood of a 3L M3 without the nose heavy block (that I DONT want). I should be starting on this project within the month or so, so if anyone cares to email me- please do! :) ~Matt volksgtimatt@hotmail.com |
I got to drive the 2.8 L aluminum block Z3...I liked the way the engine felt. I had to drive for a while to get used to the Z handling as opposed to the ti, but after a while I think I got used to it. I want one of those engines in the ti. I don't need the top end of the 3.0 but the 2.8 felt (of course) stronger than the 1.9 m44. That engine was the m52? Any other issues with that engine? Anyone know a rough price range for buying an engine? |
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Hmm...'bout the same as the DASC. IIIInteresting. |
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:D |
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