SMOG/emission Failed
 

Hi guys, I just bought my ti at saturday. And today, I went to get it smog. Unfortunately, it failed. What I'm confused about is my car don't have a CEL. so what can it be?? I don't want to buy a 02 sensor or cat if its unnecessary...:frown:

btw my car is a 1998 and drove the car for a good 20 minutes.

here's the results

CO2
15 MPH (1909 RPM) 15.28 (Amounted Measured) PASSED
25 MPH (2925 RPM) 15.17 (Amounted Measured) PASSED
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O2
15 MPH (1909 RPM) 0.27 (Amounted Measured) PASSED
25 MPH (2925 RPM) 0.04 (Amounted Measured) PASSED
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HC (PPM)
15 MPH (1909 RPM) 60 (Maximum Allowed Emissions)
25 MPH (2925 RPM) 43 (Maximum Allowed Emissions)

15 MPH (1909 RPM) 9 (Average Emissions For Passing Vehicles)
25 MPH (2925 RPM) 7 (Average Emissions For Passing Vehicles)

15 MPH (1909 RPM) 69 (Amounted Measured) FAILED
25 MPH (2925 RPM) 28 (Amounted Measured) PASSED
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CO
15 MPH (1909 RPM) 0.53 (Maximum Allowed Emissions)
25 MPH (2925 RPM) 0.51 (Maximum Allowed Emissions)

15 MPH (1909 RPM) 0.02 (Average Emissions For Passing Vehicles)
25 MPH (2925 RPM) 0.03 (Average Emissions For Passing Vehicles)

15 MPH (1909 RPM) 0.25 (Amounted Measured) PASSED
25 MPH (2925 RPM) 0.09 (Amounted Measured) PASSED
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NO (PPM)
15 MPH (1909 RPM) 459 (Maximum Allowed Emissions)
25 MPH (2925 RPM) 746 (Maximum Allowed Emissions)

15 MPH (1909 RPM) 57 (Average Emissions For Passing Vehicles)
25 MPH (2925 RPM) 50 (Average Emissions For Passing Vehicles)

15 MPH (1909 RPM) 780 (Amounted Measured) FAILED
25 MPH (2529 RPM) 232 (Amounted Measured) PASSED
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Dlag;

Since you are in California, you should be aware the the Seller is responsible for smogging any car sold, not the buyer... I would go back at the person you bought it from for some compensation. If they refuse, they must refund you and take the car back. If you bought it "As-Is" with a specific written term stating that you are responsible for smog, then you forfeited your rights.

That said, the failure for the lower rpm NO test and the lower rpm HC test can be caused by too rich a fuel mixture... Also, just running the car around for 20 minutes doesn't keep the cat as hot as it needs to be for testing purposes when the results are borderline. Too much airflow will cool the Cat off... If you have a free re-test, go back after the car is warm and then keep the engine running while you wait for them to put it on the dyno. Keep your RPM's around 2500 while you are waiting. This will get the cat hotter and will increase it's efficiency during the test...

A tune-up may help with the NO and HC, as clean frest plugs, coilpacks and filters will burn more effeciently and reduce the emissions...

Good Luck!

wolferj, thanks for the quick reply. I was almost feeling hopeless.

Anyways, I bought the car from a tow yard AS-IS. So I can't go back and ask for some compensation for the smog. Fortunately, I went to a smog station that offer free re-test. I will come back tomorrow after a oil change and new spark plugs.

repost Sorry. I thought my internet connection crap out again..

DLag,
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Well, I hope you got a good deal, buying it from a yard... Also, a fresh and clean air filter will improve air flow into the engine, letting it breathe and perform better, too.

Good Luck!

I seafoam'd the car today and threw a CEL. I'll be going to autozone and get it check..jw how often do we have to replace the cat? I'm at 143k right now..

At 143, it would not be surprising if you were due for a new cat. But plugs and an air filter are certainly cheaper. I would go ahead and to them before your retest, and try getting/keeping the cat hot when you go.

But definitely get the CEL read and cleared before you do.

Based on the readings of your first smog check, your cats are still doing their job... I agree that they may be getting old, but they still function enough to pass emissions...

I suspect that you have a bad o2 sensor, as seafoaming a car can make a marginal o2 sensor go bad... probably what is throwing the CEL...

But this is just a guess, you should definitely get the CEL codes read before you spend any more money...

Thanks for the advice! good to know my cat is still doing its job. I was just looking around on how much they cost and it is way out of my budget..

I went to autozone today and told me they don't read codes anymore. So I went ahead and took the negative terminal off the battery to reset the ecu. I drove the car around the block and the CEL turns off now after start ups. I'm assuming now that the CEL was caused by the Seafoam..

Unplugging the battery will not reset the code, you will fail smog because of a fault code. Correct, it will shut of the CEL, however the code will still be stored in memory and will show up to a scanner and to the SMOG tech. It needs to be read correctly. Talk to your local smog shop and see if they can read it for you before testing, often a Test and Repair place will, otherwise post your location, and maybe someone local can help you read/reset it. For example, if you're in Sacramento, i have Carsoft on my laptop and can help you with that..

i have a scan tool in my ti all the time. if you're near cerritos come to the meet b/c ill be there for a little while to hang out.

Not only does it need to be reset, but the it needs to go through x number of cycles.

yup. i need to check something about the evap myself. dont know what its about.
guy pulled up code P1403...