You've obviously never changed a heater core on a 1960's-early70's vintage GM A-body car... 20 min. job- tops. :biggrin: (j/k)


Dave, in one of your subsequent posts you allude to the M42 not having that seemingly pesky plastic Y-pipe that is located in the rear of the cylinder head- is that correct? I am going to do a cooling system overhaul soon and the thought of having to replace that pipe (based on others' experience on this board) was starting to make me nervous. The RealOEM diagram does not seem to show it- I just wanted to make sure that was correct. (assuming that the RealOEM diagram is for an M42, not M44). Thanks for any help.

You are correct... M42 engines don't have the plastic y-fitting at the back of the head but m44 engines do. The other plastic fitting located under the intake manifold is the same for m42 and m44 engines though.

Thanks for the clarification. http://www.318ti.org/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

I was aware of the one under the intake manifold, but an intake removal seems like a much easier job.

Can u give me the procedure of taking the heater core out please

Hi there, i have removed my heater core but i am stuck on how to remove the old pipes. I have loosened the nut from the engine side and the pipe is moving around, but when i pull the matrix pipes it does not come out completely as it gets stuck in the firewall. Can anyone help me with this please.

help with 318ti
 

Was wounding if you can send me the pictures of this procedure, thank you very much.:smile:

Can you please send me the pictures of this procedure, thank you very much.

sorry my email tlua66@yahoo.com

thanks for all the info guys! Imma be doing this soon to my Ti.!

Thanx for this thread!!

Lots of info , im about to repair my heater core ,basicly to put a new one , my father has already bypassed it some years ago!

So after 21 years my 1998 ti finally needed the heater core replaced. If anyone wants specific photos let me know and I'll get some while everything is apart.

I got it out today and found that the core itself is not leaking but the four o-ring connections under the dash were all leaking. The o-rings were very deformed and hard when I took the old core apart. My plastic pipes at the firewall are extremely discolored but not broken, those o-rings were also in poor shape.

You'll need a torx T20, 10mm, and 8mm to get most of screws for the heater pipes apart.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7802/...6e80f36b_k.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7806/...7f129898_k.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7896/...798e3f6d_k.jpg

These plugs came with the new heater core to minimize spills while removing the old one. Can also be used to hold some coolant in the core while you re-install.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7897/...8e8760e6_k.jpg

Here's where the foam strips go, thin strip under the pipe connection end and the two thick strips run down the long sides of the core front/back.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7836/...673a3ae4_k.jpg

Once all the hardware is removed these pipes need to be pulled into the engine bay a bit to get the lower connection apart.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7831/...e7d588eb_k.jpg

Regarding the plastic pipes at the firewall, PN 64118391141, pictured in post #14:

After removing the single nut, there is also a retaining tab that is difficult to see, as it interfaces with the upper edge of the part. The retaining tab needs to be lifted to free the part.

Also, the ridiculously overpriced orings (64118379131) that BMW sells, are 13/16" ID, 1" OD, and 3/32" cross section. $0.69 each at my local hardware, but if you buy 100, they run about 6 cents each. The oring is formally known as an AS568A-117.

And regarding the rubber "grommet" that the two plastic pipes protrude through; mate these parts before attempting to install the plastic pipes.